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jrhopper09
Most users ever online was 476, 06-27-2009 at 07:18 PM.

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skata
Mahstah, is the wadded up tape for pushing down or pushing to the right? Or, both?
The wad is to depress the sensor, which is visible (for those with decent eyes) just inside the right hand edge of the left hand battery cover slot. If my memory serves right, the sensor (more of a switch) pushes down. You can test it with a paper clip.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2006, 01:43 PM
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Is this a pretty common problem? I on occasion get the warining battery latch open when I haven't touched the cover but no too often...perhaps if it keeps up I'll have to try the "wad" myself.....

Thanks,
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:27 PM
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The "tiny little strip" (I couldn't be bothered finding an imperial ruler and trying to measure out lengths) of postit note solution works wonders.

It may be a kludge but it definitely works.

Thanks!!
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:22 PM
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Does it make any difference to the machine if the battery latch is permanently depressed? It seems to be a solution looking for a problem - an unnecessary complication which increases the likelihood of failure. What's the point of this switch?
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:28 PM
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The point of the switch is to alert you when your battery is going to fall out as a result of the latch being opened. If the battery comes loose while you're editing something you lose the document. Since the battery does not have a tendency to come loose or fall out, there is no consequence to bypassing the switch to get rid of an incorrect message caused by a switch that's too sensitive.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2006, 06:06 PM
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Talking Switch reacts to downward pressure

Unless Mahstah (King Guru of Axims) corrects me, the pressure switch is for DOWNWARD pressure. You can test it by pushing down very slightly with a stylus tip, and feel the "click". The sideways underlatch is for latching into place. This "single point" latch isn't the best design, when compared to the overall size of the battery door, combined with the flex provided by the thin plastic material.

Maybe Dell will put some strengthing "gussets" down the length of the door on the next model...? Then again, a titanium door would be great, eh?
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Old 09-23-2006, 01:31 PM
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Can I add a bit to help prevent others spending the uncomfortable half hour I've just spent? I started with a piece of hard foam. It disappeared inside the machine. Oh dear. I tried nmaking a wedge with a matchstick. Same thing. With the aid of sharp needles and tweezers I managed to get them both out again, and then started again, looking properly at what I was doing instead of guessing (duh...).
I thought that the switch mechanism was at the end of the left bay. Well, technically it is, but in practice it's the entire floor of the left bay which forms the mechanism - like a diving board, left end fixed, right end pressing the contact. So my solution was not to try again to wedge anything in the right-hand side of the bay, but to put the same tiny wad of hard sponge (cut from the rings you get holding down CDs in 25-packs) on the "diving board", then setting the catch on top of the wad and closing the catch. Result - the wad presses properly on the spring mech and holds it shut.
Hope this helps... (sorry if it's a bit long).
DAH
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:38 PM
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i used small cloth adhesive backed tape circle from bottoms of speakers
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:41 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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Thank you to all for the suggestions. For the first time my Axim X51V is not constantly having to be "reset". Also, the Lenny version WM6 is a GREAT work. Thank you Lenny, for the first time my Axim is not hanging up indefinitely.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2009, 01:21 AM
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Poor cover switch design

Thanks to all youse guys for telling what you did.

I attempted to unsolder the switch to replace it with a jumper, but my butane iron with the smallest tip (less than 1/16") couldn't do the job.

After looking at your suggestions, I decided to use CA glue and a 16" or so piece of a toothpick, used a pair of spring tweezers to hold the wood against the switch actuator, pushing it to the connected position (to the right), added a drop of CA glue followed by a drop of accelerator and so far so good.

If I run into a problem, I'll report it.

Regards, Bernie
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